Ethylene oxide, the chemical found in some packed Indian masalas, is not only a carcinogen (cancer-causing agent) — it also wreaks havoc on the human body. “Exposure to this harmful substance [ethylene oxide] for a brief period can lead to headaches, nausea and wheezing in people,” said Dr Edwina Raj, Head of Services – Clinical Nutrition and Dietetics, Aster CMI Hospital, Bangalore. Long-term use can also cause DNA damage, she said.
With Singapore and Hong Kong recalling some MDH and Everest masalas due to the presence of ethylene oxide and the European Union (EU) raising concerns regarding several other compounds found in packaged Indian spices, Happiest Health spoke to Chef K Latha, the Chef de Cuisine of Malabar Café, Grand Hyatt, Kochi, Kerala, to find out how to best use spices when making Indian food.
Chef Latha, the first female chef of Kerala, swears by fresh ingredients that not only add nutritional value to the dishes but also amplify their health benefits. These are her top tips regarding the storage of spices and herbs:
- Whole spices last longer: While powdered spices last only for a year, spices like pepper, cumin and cloves last for up to three years when stored whole.
- Dry spices thoroughly before powdering: Moisture content in masalas can lead to early spoilage. It is crucial to dry spices thoroughly before storing them.
- Store in airtight containers: Once the spices have dried, keep them in airtight containers. A small quantity can be kept aside in jars for daily cooking. This prevents the rest of the spice from losing flavor.
- Use a dry spoon: Always use a dry spoon when taking spices out of a container. A wet spoon introduces moisture into the airtight box, causing spices to lose their freshness.
- Keep away from light and heat: Store spices and herbs away from heat and light to keep them fresh for longer.
All about the ethylene oxide controversy
Ethylene oxide is a colorless gas used as a raw material in the production of chemicals like ethylene glycol, which is used in solvents and detergents, says Dr Denis Xavier, professor and head of the department of pharmacology, St John’s Medical College, Bangalore. He added that the chemical is also present in automobile exhaust emissions and cigarettes. Moreover, a small quantity of this gas is used to sterilize or fumigate materials like herbs and spices.
Dr Xavier said that a few years ago, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) upgraded ethylene oxide from the Group 2 category of carcinogens to Group 1. While the earlier categorization indicated that it was ‘probably carcinogenic to humans’, the updated category removes any semblance of doubt. This was based on studies and evidence where the chemical was associated with breast cancer and blood cancer.
The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) also recently classified ethylene oxide as a human carcinogen, following studies on humans and animals, as well as mechanistic studies done over the years. Besides, about a decade ago, New Zealand found harmful levels of ethylene oxide in the imported spices. Between September 2020 and April 2024, food safety authorities from the EU found ethylene oxide in 527 products linked to India. These include 313 nuts and sesame seeds, 60 herbs and spices and 48 dietetic foods.
Health risks caused by ethylene oxide use in foods
Consumption of ethylene oxide and other carcinogenic materials in food can lead to a range of cancers, including stomach cancer, blood cancer (leukemia), and breast cancer, says Dr U S Vishal Rao, country director and dean — head and neck surgical oncology and robotic surgery, HCG Cancer Centre, Bangalore. These carcinogens have the potential to trigger carcinogenesis in various organs, posing significant health risks to consumers. Dr Rao added, “As such, informed and responsible consumerism, alongside stringent quality control measures, becomes imperative to mitigate these risks and ensure public health and safety.”
Chemical-free preservation techniques can help, say culinary experts
Sudan dyes and synthetic coloring agents are often added to food products and masala powders such as chili powder to make the color more appealing, said Chef K Latha. She added that chilies are sprayed with pesticides during the cultivation process itself. “Every company processes these masala powders in their own manner, which often includes spraying chemicals to increase their shelf life,” she informed.
Chef Latha stresses the importance of natural preservation techniques to make chemical-free flours and masala powders last longer. She explains that the traditional process of making rice flour involves washing the rice at least seven times before finally drying and grinding it. Besides, spices like garam masala contain ingredients like cinnamon and clove that prevent it from getting spoiled too fast — it can be preserved naturally for about a year. Speaking of simple ways to preserve spices naturally, she says that one can add clove to a container of rice to prevent insects from entering it. Similarly, there are several methods of preserving dry food and spices. These can be brought back, which will lower the use of chemicals in persevering masala powders.
Concerns in trade and consumerism of food products
In the pursuit of business growth, there is often a conflict between trade interests and food safety responsibilities, says Dr Rao. “Certain carcinogens may be added to food products to enhance taste and color or impart special flavors. This potentially increases their sales but poses risks to consumer health. Ethylene oxide, used in products like Everest and MDH masala powders, is labeled a fungicide. This raises concerns about its presence in food,” he added. While these additives inhibit fungal growth, they also harbor health risks for consumers, said Dr Rao.
“Carcinogens like ethylene oxide have the potential to trigger cancer development, primarily affecting organs where maximum food absorption occurs, such as the stomach, colon, or intestine,” he added.
Responsible consumerism
Dr Rao suggests that informed and responsible consumerism should be advocated as a means to address the challenge of harmful additives in spices. He explained, “Consumers should be provided truthful disclosures mandated by law and ethical standards. This will empower them to make informed decisions about their food choices.” Responsible consumerism, coupled with quality standards and regulatory oversight, is crucial to safeguarding public health in the face of increasing industrialization and capitalism in the food industry.
Following concerns over the use of highly toxic elements including 2-Chloroethanol and ethylene glycol, the EU has set a limit of 0.1mg of ethylene oxide per kilo of food additives.
